This was a 3 month project that included a 6″ lift kit, frame braces, 32″ tires on 17″ wheels, 5 speaker stereo system with 1000 watt amp and full head unit,extra battery with isolator,4000lb warn winch with cordless remote,1180 big bore kit with race cams,power commander fuel tuner, cat delete exhaust with modified stock mufflers, STM clutch’s, 20″ and 40″ dual row led lights, 5 pipe snorkel system with belt housing blower and thermostat, lithium ion main battery, underbody led lights, nerd bars, computer reflash, aluminum roof and more.
It is rare that you get the opportunity to do a job like this and learn so many things in the process. Modifying a new machine like this is a challenge do to fact that there hasn’t been a lot of testing done for the changes, like the engine and engine management system. It was fun and stressful at the same time. The clutching, fueling and intake have been the biggest challenge. The added wording for the stereo and lighting took a week to complete. The customer wanted bad ass and he got it. It’s not easy going from a customer telling you he doesn’t need brakes because he doesn’t want to spend the money for them and blows out his back window of his beautiful truck when he loaded it, to a unlimited budget to do what ever you want and get the best products available. Along with this unlimited budget comes the responsibility of getting the job done right.
These new ATV’s that are coming out are starting to get like cars. Big computers, electronic throttle systems, catalytic converters, O2 sensors and dash boards like a plane. This all makes it hard for a none dealer shop to work on or modify when you can’t get or afford the software that is required to see the problems with the system. The nice thing that they have retained is that you can pull codes out of the display’s and have a idea where to look. I just ran into a problem were I can’t adjust the idle on a electronic throttle body after Installing a Big Bore kit and Cams. There is ways around it, take it to a dealer and pay them to adjust it through there computer, or if it isn’t to far off, add a air valve to the intake with a filter between the throttle body and engine or if to high, adjust the primary clutch spring so the trans doesn’t turn. All this said, make sure before you order aftermarket mods that they have been tested and the supplier can tell you what to do to make the mods work properly. Call them first and see what is in tailed with doing the mods. You can do mechanical mods but will the electronic system work with the mods. Also don’t assume that what you see on a given website is for your application, for instance I ordered a 1000 big bore kit and some cams for a side by side and found out that it has only been tested on the ATV 1000 not the side by side 1000. You would think it is the same motor like we are used to seeing in the past,(Rhino engine the same as the Grizzly with a few exceptions to external parts) but in this case it isn’t. The heads are different on the ATV verses the side by side. The aftermarket cams for the ATV did not work in the side by side. So do your research, call the supplier, read forums for people that have done the mods and by all means know what you are getting into. If you are doing engine mods, always check your clearances with aftermarket parts. I did not do any damage to the engine with the wrong cams because I did all my clearance checks but the engine just didn’t run right.